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                Part One To 
                Part Two The Least Boat I Can Build After  the last two articles, I’ve decided to look at deadrise boats and flat bottomed  boats. William Atkin made a statement concerning deadrise small craft. He said  that when a v-bottom boat heels the underwater shape is so different on one  side of the keel than the oth-er, the irregular shape shakes the boat just  enough to ruffle some of the wind out of the sail. This  has  convinced  me  that  a  
                sailboat  cannot  have  very  much  deadrise  
                on  a  short  length.  To take advantage of the reduced wetted surface, a v-bottom  boat can have a deadrise bow with flat bottom after it, or a flat bottomed bow  with the deadrise after the midsection. This is why I believe the Eric Sponberg Halfling, which has a v-bow yet a flat bottom amidships, is the perfect  shape for any craft under 8 feet. Longer than 8 feet, a sailboat has some choices. In the case 
                of rhe Olin Stephens Blue Jay the bow lifts so that the 
                water hits the deadrise first, as you see below. This is accomplished 
                by having the deepest deadrise aft of the boat’s midpoint, 
                where the skipper would sit. The compromise Olin made was for 
                the waterline to just touch the stern, with the chine well out 
                of the water. It’s a great formula for a 10-15 footer - 
                bow above the waterline, the deadrise handling the waves, the 
                stern just touching the waterline with the chine above the water 
                for the last 3 1/2 feet. Olin has created a lifted after run on 
                a deadrise boat with enough deadrise for the center-board and 
                its’ trunk to provide some ballast on the keel.  
 I’ve put in the waterline in blue. The  Gifford Jackson Marisol is very close to this, although I have no idea  if he knew of Blue Jay. You can see the deadrise is gradual at the bow.  The sides come in gradually, too, toward the bow as if in agreement with the  Bolger statement that the curve of the sides should match the curve of the  bottom. This is just enough length at 13 feet to have the sides and bottom meet  at a traditional looking bow. If the waves kick up, the bow is there to smack  them off of the forward section. 
 Here is the view of the planks, with their gradual turn from Blue  Jay’s width to its bow and stern. The bow sections are narrow, the flare is  greatest at the bow, and the stern is narrow, about 3 feet 2 inches. This is  close to a canoe with a square stern, cut short. An observant designer will see that the next to the last frame 
                at the stern is 1 foot 7 inches, while the third frame from the 
                bow is 1 foot 6 inches. This means the sections aft of the widest 
                part do not curve inward any more severly than the sections forward 
                of the midpoint curve toward the bow Everything is so gradual, 
                no wonder the water flows under and around Blue Jay so 
                well. If you had grown up with canoes, you'd recognize this shape. But this is a keel boat, nonetheless, with parts to make. The  Atkin Willy Winship is close in LOA and shape to Blue Jay.  Usually flat-bottomed boats usually have rockerat the bow to keep the boat  above the water. However, rocker drawn up to the bow creates friction at that  bow where the waves hit a flat surface. The Atkin solution is to have a slight  rocker by putting the bow in the water. Taking some of the rocker out eases the  water along the bottom, as the water moves somewhat close to parallel to the  waterline, provided the bow meets the waves first. The Atkins then made the bow  sec-tions narrow to reduce wetted surface while placing the bow in the water  for some stability and performance against waves. It’s another great formula---fairly  slight rocker with flared sides, narrow at the chines, bow in the water with a  lifting stern.
 
 This is just a boat shape, in its’ simplest form. Beautiful sheer,  simple shape, perfect balance, quiet turns of the lines. The crew’s seat can be  moved around somewhat without ruining the trim of the boat. When we compare  Stephens with Atkin, we see the Blue Jay chine is under water less than  with Winship. Possibly the flare of the Winship topsides was  meant to help this out by softening the angle. However, we are back to building parts. Willy Winship requires  all 5 of its’ frames on a ladder with supports for the stern and the bow and  four braces to create this beautiful shape. Maybe we can learn from Olin and  the Atkins, to build a boat with the least trouble. 
 We can use the WAAM method here (wrap around a midframe). The 
                simplest and strongest bow is the up-right bow of cutters. Then 
                our after run lift will be created by the flare of the sides. 
                This flare is created simp-ly by the tilted stern. The chines 
                are taken directly from Atkin’s Cabin Boy. Since 
                their curve is gradual, the chine might not break when you bend 
                them. Now for the profile. The increasing flare will lift the bottom 
                as it bends. How much simply depends on the builder. In my case, 
                I’ll go with what the plywood does. I’ll cut a slight 
                curve to the upright bow, just for looks. I’ll try to make 
                up for the upright bow with some sheer dip near that bow. 
 As with the usual WAAM style, this boat needs chines on the outside and  solid pine transom and bow piece. I’ll use spacer sticks to keep the shape  where it is until I’ve clamped and glued the bottom on. I put the spacer sticks  6 inches from the bottom so that I can use them to hold the boat as I move it  around. If this is to be a 10 -15 foot sailboat, I’d make it a sprit rig  cutter, with a small jib for getting away from the dock and approaching the  dock at the end of the day. If there is one complaint about sprit rigs, it is that the sail twists.  In strong gusts, this is good, but in a small boat it will make trimming the  sail difficult. In light air, this is frustrating. However, the closer you peak  the sail to the mast, the less twist you’ll get. A boom will also reduce the  twisting somewhat. Now for some sprit designs. First comes the Michalak Slam 
                Dink. It is the handsomest sprit rig I’ve 
                ever seen on a small boat. While it is not peaked very high above 
                the mast top, the angle from the throat to the peak has a nice 
                similarity to the sheer toward the stern. This means it won’t 
                beat to windward with the best of them, but it will get you home 
                safely in bad weather. It’s probably the best all around 
                sail shape for an 8 foot-er. What I like best is the two sprits 
                are tied off close together, so you can get to both of them at 
                the same time.  
 I think I would have preferred the peak over the  leeboard for response and balance. But tht is a small matter only for Slam  Dink. This is a great little project. The main idea is that if there is a  wrinkle, it should be from the peak to the tack; if it’s from the throat to the  clew will get you thrown out of the yacht club. Now we’ll move up to a 10 footer, the Atkin Vintage, 
                which has the sprit rig sail the Atkins favored on all their small 
                boats. As you can see, it is peaked a bit higher than Slam 
                Dink, with two 8 foot spars and an 8 foot mast. The boom 
                is snotted a little closer to the clew, giving you a few more 
                feet of sail area. There will be less twist in this sail than 
                for Slam Dink, with slightly better windward movement. 
                The tradeoff is the sail will need more attention to keep smoothly 
                curved, as they said in the 19 century, for the sail to be full 
                and by. 
 Below is a 17th century sprit rig design. This  was drawn by Melbourne Smith for the Revolutionary Priva-teer Lynx, 75  feet, which is a sail training ship in Newport    Beach, CA.  This is the lifeboat for Lynx, about 18 feet (I’m guessing here) with heavy  spars for the main and mizzen sail boom and sprit. 
 I have to thank Melbourne  for his generous help on some technical matters with articles in the past. It’s  the only way I can drop his name without sounding like a name-dropper. Someday  I’ll have to visit him, to see what’s in his fridge. One advantage of the mizzen mast is the main peak can be sheeted 
                off to the top of the mizzen mast, to trim it, as long as it is 
                not trimmed too tight. This sail design is worth looking at for 
                camp cruising and the Texas 200. The aspect is low, the main sprit 
                can be dropped, reducing the sail area considerably, and the downwind 
                leg could be sailed with jib and mizzen alone, wing and wing. 
                Not only that, but the sails cover most of the boat, providing 
                the crew with shade. Finally, a very high peaked sprit rig is 
                on Gavin Atkin’s Bluestone. 
                This lapstrake boat was inspired by the river craft which sailed 
                the rivers of England and the Thames. It’s an ingenious 
                design in many ways, only one of which is the sail.  
 See: https://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/gavin/bluestone/index.htm I hope these   versions  have  given   you  all sorts of ideas  for   boats.  ***** 
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